|
Flooded Street in New Delhi |
How to sum up everything I have done in the past two weeks?
Has it really been that long? How time flies. I’ve never flown before, nor have
I really left the Midwestern United States, so flying to India by myself was an
adventure all its own. My first day in India, spent in New Delhi, was anything
but pleasant thanks to the terrible airport services and staff. Fortunately, I
made some friends during my 17 hour layover, so I had the opportunity to walk
around Delhi and learn some conversational Hindi. Some of the streets were
flooded due to heavy rains, and some small children tried robbing me. It was
adorable!
One flight with a brief layover in Mumbai later and I was in
Coimbatore, about an hour away from the ashram in Anaikatti where I am
primarily residing. My driver was there waiting for me to take me on the four
hour journey to the small (not even on Google maps) rural village of Mangala Puram,
on the outskirts of Mangalamkombu Village in Tamil Nadu, where I would spend
the next 10 days learning Taittiriya Upanishad Chapter II and Bhagavad Gita Chapter IX. I am grateful for this journey, as it allowed me to see parts of
southern India I may otherwise have missed, although I was so exhausted from my
flights that I ended up sleeping through the latter half of the drive.
|
Tranquil Nests: My Daily View |
I should probably mention for the record that this class was
an optional expense paid for with my own money; fellowship funds were not used.
I felt it was important to experience a traditional style of Vedic teaching,
opposed to just relying on my own self study, before beginning my formal research.
I am so glad that I opted to do this, as the teacher taught with great clarity
and I learned and experienced far more than I had bargained for.
|
Tranquil Nests: Dining Area at Night |
The classes were initially to be held at the ashram in Anaikatti,
but due to limited space, they were relocated one week before my departure to a
beautiful inn called Tranquil Nests, tucked away in the mountains of Palani
Hills on a small coffee plantation. No internet or cell phone connectivity made
it difficult to keep in touch with family back home, but at the same time
provided the perfect atmosphere for study and focus. The view of the misty
mountains, the abundant variety of insects, animals, fruit trees and plant life,
and the sounds of the jungle and the nearby village made this place the closest
thing to “paradise” I have ever seen.
|
Tranquil Nests: Activity Area |
The class size was small (about a dozen students) and I will
never forget the people I met there. Each person brought an invaluable
contribution to the group dynamic. I was sick and jetlagged my first few days,
but everyone was extremely helpful and understanding during this time, even
interrupting scheduled classes to make a visit to the local pharmacy with me,
where we got to see Mangala Puram’s colorful atmosphere and visit a small
roadside temple for prayer.
|
Mangala Puram: Anti-Plastic Demonstration by Local School Children |
Our days were divided between 3 delicious vegetarian meals,
yoga, meditation, pranayama, tai chi, tea time, nature hikes, and of course, 2
intense lectures on Taittiriya, 1 on Bhagavad Gita, and a nightly satsang (a
Q&A session). I was also given the opportunity to write and deliver 4 brief
lectures during this time – one on special relativity, two on quantum
mechanics, and a fourth describing how I plan to incorporate Vedanta into my
research in the sciences, as well as discussions on various topics related to
the relationship between these ideas. Each lecture was permeated and followed
by Q&A. With no internet connection or other resources at my disposal, this
was a good opportunity for me to discover how much I really know, and to
practice lecturing/teaching/public speaking.
|
View from the Bus en Route to Kodaikanal |
|
View from Coaker's Villa |
We took one day off from our usual schedule on 15-JUL-13 to
visit Kodaikanal and a nearby temple in Poombarai. We traveled by bus
through the mountains, seeing spectacular views along the way. One of our
students made special arrangements for us to be guests of honor at Coaker’s
Villa in Kodaikanal for the day, and I saw firsthand the immense difference
between American and Indian hospitality. We were greeted with fresh flower
malas, tea, and a drum and dance performance. A five-star chef prepared a
custom-made meal of our favorite dishes (even some Italian food!) for us to
enjoy on the edge of a cliff overlooking the scenic mountains and valley all
around.
|
Poombarai, Tamil Nadu, India |
As if this surprise weren’t enough, another of our students
made special arrangements for us to visit the Kuzhanthai Velappar Temple, a
small, discrete 3,000 year old Hindu temple nested at the center of the valley
town of Poombarai. We were told that no cameras, technology, etc. had ever been
allowed inside, and that unless you were destined to be there, you would never
come. I believe it too, considering the fact that on the way there our bus
avoided being crushed by a fallen tree by just less than 1 minute. (We were not
held up by this obstruction for long, as local villagers quickly obtained an
axe to chop through and move the tree, which was too large for the 20+ men at
the scene to even budge.) We were given a special puja in which the priest of
the temple prayed for us and our close family members by name, and then allowed
us to chant in the temple for a solid 45 minutes – another miraculous thing,
considering many people were said to be incapable of even speaking in this
ancient place, let alone entering. The deity, Lord Murugan, was created over
3,000 years ago purely out of herbs, known as navabashanam (nine herbs), and
still remains preserved to this day.
|
Tree in the Road |
|
On the last day of our classes, the remaining students and I
visited the Balamurugan Temple in nearby Thandikudi, again being given a puja
and chanting for a while. It was situated on the top of a hill overlooking the
village and the surrounding mountains. The shape of a peacock, which is known
as the vehicle of Murugan, naturally formed on one of the nearby rocks on the
hill.
|
Palani Hills Murugan Temple - Inside View |
|
Palani Hills Temple (Source: www.palanimurugantemple.org) |
The following day, 19-JUL-13, we left to return to the
ashram in Anaikatti, but made a stop at the Hill Temple of Palani, one of
India’s oldest and largest temples. A puja had been arranged for us here as
well, and I was graced with additional vibhuti (ashes from the deity which are
symbolic of the basis of life – carbon) from the head priest. We stopped for
lunch and were served a full course South Indian meal on banana leaves. This
easily would be a $20 meal in the US, but it cost only 100 rupees –
less than $2 in US currency. Amazing! We dropped off the last remaining student
besides me at the airport in Coimbatore, picked up some food and supplies, and
made it to the ashram in Anaikatti, Arsha Vidya Gurukulam (which means the place where one lives
with the family of the guru to learn the knowledge passed down by the Rishis)
late that night.
You will see by the date of this post that I have been at
the ashram for a few days now. It is truly a remarkable place, but I will
save my descriptions and stories for the next post. I will however mention that
I am off to a great start in terms of research leads – I have 2 pages
full of topics to research, people to interview and talk to, places to visit,
books to read, etc. Needless to say I will be very busy in the next month. I
owe a HUGE thank you to Surya and Neema for going above and beyond in terms of
teaching me Vedanta, helping me navigate India, arranging my accommodations at
the ashram, and providing a great abundance of resources for my research
project.